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Subculture descriptions.

Mod, Punk, Skin Head, Rockabilly, Suede Head, Casuals, Ivy League, Northern Soul, Psychobilly,


Subculture

Descriptions -

Mod - One of the defining subcultures of the 20th century, the mod movement had a soundtrack and look that provided style-conscious British men with a blueprint for living. But as Paul Anderson's new opus Mods: The New Religion (Omnibus Press) illustrates, it's the youth culture that's outlived every other to stay as relevant today as it was in the swinging Sixties. (source - https://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/article/mod-culture-sixties-fashion)

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Punk - The punk rock subculture began in the United States in the early 1970s as both a continuation and a reaction to the 1960s countercultural movements. Although punk music was largely an American invention, punk style and attitude was very much a product of British youth culture. Punk began as a reaction against the music, idealism, and aesthetics of the 1960s hippie movements, but can also be seen as a continuation of the political and stylistic upheavals of the 1960s.  (source - https://study.com/academy/lesson/history-of-the-punk-rock-subculture.html)

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Skin Head - The Skinhead subculture is one of the most underrepresented, misunderstood and mythic subcultures to date. It’s not all burly white men, with shaved heads and strong opinions and it’s certainly not a term to throw around at anyone who shaves their header shorter than a #2 clip guard. Skinhead is a subculture that was built amongst so much diverse culture – particularly immigrant culture, Jamaican and Punk music, and poor working conditions. For many people it’s simply too raw to get a grasp of. Jamaican Rude boys, who immigrated to England, introduced the sound that would become the inspirational for many modern Skinhead genres. Classic genres associated with the subculture – Ska, soul, rock-steady and reggae – became genres like Oi!
Out of the Punk scene came a new skinhead fronted genre called Oi! It began as a mix of Punk rock music and the British Skinhead sound, often incorporating football chants, and musicians opting for more political military inspired outfits. Later it was influenced by hardcore and British street punk sounds.


The skinhead subculture – particularly its style – started in conjunction with the Mod movement. The working class mods also known as hard mods wore high doc martens, jeans, collared shirts, braces and shaved heads that were utilitarian for use as durable work-wear for factory jobs and labour but doubled as their own subcultural style. Due to conflict between smooth mods (higher class mods) and the hard mods, many working class members broke off from the Mod scene and developed what we know of as the first Skinheads. (source - https://www.rebelcircus.com/blog/brief-history-skinhead-subculture/

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Rockabilly - Revolving around the 1950’s, the Rockabilly culture represents this period in time. This subculture has various characteristics that make it stand out from all others, having its own music, fashion style, hairstyle and language.

The term ‘Rockabilly’ used to refer to a type of music genre that emerged in the 50’s, mainly existing out of a mixture of rock ‘n roll and country. Since the subculture relates to the 50’s, typical style elements of that time period are part of the rockabilly’s appearance: Wide dresses, tight and ripped jeans, waxed hair, 50’s classic cars, distinct colors and patterns which could then be seen in everyday design. Nowadays, the term rockabilly is used to define an incorrect stereotype of Elvis and Marilyn fans. The subculture is in many ways considered to be a commercial farce of the original 50’s rockabilly culture. (source - https://medium.com/@bours.ruben/the-rockabilly-culture-and-its-language-bf98aeef9110)

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Suedehead - The suedehead subculture was an early-1970s offshoot of skinhead subculture in the United Kingdom and Ireland. Although sharing similarities to 1960s skinheads, suedeheads grew their hair longer and dressed more formally. Although often working class like skinheads, some had white collar jobs. A female suedehead was a sort.

Suedeheads wore broguesloafers or basketweave Norwegians instead of heavy boots. Suedeheads wore suits (especially in check patterns such as Prince of Walesand dogtooth) and other dressy outfits as everyday wear instead of just at dancehalls. Crombie-style overcoats and sheepskin coats became common. Most London Suedeheads wore a silk handkerchief in the top pocket of their Crombie, which also had a circular tie-pin through the Crombie and the handkerchief. Shirts often had large button-down collars, usually either pointed or rounded, called Butterfly collars. The top shirts were Ben Sherman's with a back pleat and top loop. Early on the most common style was a large windowpane check worn under a tank top (known as a sweater vest in North America). At the height of the era, shirts changed to muted pastel shades, with the colour being governed by the day of the week. Sta-Prest trousers became worn more than jeans, which had been common with skinheads. Although the most popular form of trousers, were the 2Tone Tonic, which changed colour as they moved. The most common base colours were Blue and Green, whilst the most favoured secondary colours were Red, Yellow and Gold. Another characteristic was coloured socks—such as solid red or blue—instead of plain black or white. (source -https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Suedehead_(subculture)

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Casuals - It is said (by some) that the casual subculture began in the late seventies when a group of Liverpool fans were stampeding their way across the continent in the European Cup with European glory in their blood, and the desire for high end designer clothing.

Hundreds of lads returned from the away trips with new and unknown Italian & French designer sportswear brands such as Sergio Tacchini, Fila Vintage, Kappa, adidas trainers & Lacoste. Such brands had never been seen in the UK before and the ‘Casuals’ look was born. High end premium sportswear that was usually seen on the tennis court was the ‘in’ look with lads all over the country replacing every day footwear for a pair of Diadora BJ’s or adidas Stan Smiths. (source - https://realclobber.com/casual-culture-history-and-terrace-subculture/)


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Ivy Leauge - Ivy style is about two things. Representing yourself through your wardrobe as a member of one of the most elite universities or colleges in the world and dressing down when the authority figure such as your father would normally dress up.

It’s really that simple. Slightly more formal, yet still relatively casual. Of course, today the styles are intertwined like vines along an old rusted fence and ivy style as its own subculture fell from existence in the late 1960s. Today the only separation between the two is the varying degree of formality, yet even that is too close to distinguish. (source -https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/ivy-style-primer

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Northern Soul - Who would've thought the working men's clubs of Wigan would become the birthplace of the all-night party culture we're so accustomed to today? Back 1973, revellers flocked to the now famous Wigan Casino to hit the dancefloor to lost and forgotten tracks from Detroit, and the Northern Soul scene was born.

To celebrate the arrival of Northern Soul DJs to play our Carnaby Street Style instore party this week, the Last Word will this week take a look back at one of Britain's most unlikely, yet enduring, subcultures. (source - https://www.bensherman.co.uk/the-last-word/one/a-patchy-history-of-northern-soul)

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Psychobilly - There is no doubt that scenes have a significant impact on music and its culture. The subcultures that focus on genres follow the typical rules of the genre and the context of the time. Scenes add new layers of rules to the music, and each scene will have its own variation of a sound. However, sometimes scenes are not just moments in time. Sometimes they are the start of entirely new genres that spread across the world. That is what the first psychobilly scene was. It created an entirely new genre of music that would infect all of Europe, and eventually the world. Psychobilly is one of the most unique music genres out there. It takes bits and pieces from everything it can, mashes it all together and somehow it works. The result is an entirely new unique genre and culture. 1980 to 1983 is considered the first wave of psychobilly. The degenerate monsters that started it all come from London, playing small time gigs, gradually moving up to the monstrous European movement of the mid to late '80's. But it all started out in a few dive bars back in London, England. (source - http://www.furious.com/perfect/psychobilly.html

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